Silvered Ivory Stringer Revealed – Part 4 – Heat and Pull

I promise – I will finish this  Silvered Ivory Stringer Revealed tutorial in this post.  (In case you missed it, part 1 is here, part 2 is here, and part 3 is here.)

Now, I heat the plug.  I heat from the bottom – my rationale is this: the silver is going to burn off, and it might as well fume the ivory while that is happening.  I really have no idea if this makes a difference, but that is what I do.


Heating the Plug

When I heat the plug, I always try and aim toward the center of the plug.  It is hard to explain and the pictures don’t show it very well…  But when I’m heating the right side of the plug, my right hand is closer to me, and when I’m heating the left side, my left hand is closer to me.  The motion is sort of like steering a bicycle.  When the glass starts to melt, my self talk changes the name of the plug to a gather; I’m sure that this makes all of the difference [said with a touch of sarcasm].


More Heat - Let's Call it a Gather Now!

When the gather is thoroughly heated, I bring it out of the flame, and wait.  How long?  Until it is ready.  I know when it is ready, because I have made lots of them, and I just know.  It is mushy and soft, but not runny – it also looks different; I have heard it described as “forming a skin”.

I often stand up at this point.  If this gather drops, I do NOT want it on my lap.


Gather Out of the Heat - Wait!!!

Then I pull, just a little, and wait.  It will begin to droop on its own.   If I didn’t wait long enough in the last step and it starts to droop too fast, I blow on the punty ends.  CAREFULLY!  Burned lips are bad. Letting the center droop before pulling keeps the ends from being real thick and being like “dog bones”.


Pull the Gather Just a Little - Wait!

Once it stops drooping on its own, I start to pull harder and faster.  The slower the pull at this point, the thicker the final stringer will be.


Pull a Little Faster

Finally, I pull firmly on the finished stringer.  I wait 10 or 15 seconds at the very least to make sure that the stringer stays straight.  See the nice lines on this twisty?  Perfect!  I finish by flame cutting it in the center and then trimming the stringer from the punties with my tile cutters.


Silvered Ivory Stringer

All material contained within this Tutorial is protected by Copyright, “Spawn of Flame” Rosemarie Hanus, 2009; all rights reserved.

Rosemarie Hanus makes beads in her home studio. Almost all of them use Silvered Ivory Stringer – Look at these beads at EtsyArt Fire, or her Spawn of Flame website.

About rosemarie h.

engineer by day - artist by night View all posts by rosemarie h.

17 responses to “Silvered Ivory Stringer Revealed – Part 4 – Heat and Pull

  • Mallory

    Great tutorial, Rose! Thank you!

  • sally bowen

    Thank you so much for sharing your technique~!

  • kathy lowe

    What a great tutorial. Thank you for giving back. I noticed that your ivory was not completely covered with silver. Does that matter in your end product? And, how thick is your final stringer?

  • rosemarie h.

    Kathy, I like the results better when there is a little of the ivory that isn’t covered – that’s the reason that I use a larger clear core. Actually, there probably isn’t any difference at all, lol!

    The size of the stringers will vary – it depends on how fast I pull. Faster = thinner. Most of mine are almost exactly the same size as a 3/32 inch (0.1 inch, 2.5 mm); that is what I use for my little bead sets. If I want to make something that I want more ivory coverage, then I pull slower and make them bigger.

  • Leah

    Great tutorial….I’ve always wanted a more organic look to my SIS. I’m going to try your version. Thanks 🙂

  • Lesley McFarland

    Thanks for a great tutorial, its always interesting to see how other people do things. My own way is completely different using much smaller amounts of glass so I will give yours a go and see what results. Thanks 🙂

  • Lee Lynde

    Thanks for sharing. I’ve just recently found the wonder of silvered ivory. Your tips will help me with finer detail than I’ve been able to achieve with the methods I’ve been using. It is so great that experienced lampworkers like you are willing to help those of us who are just getting started.

  • Heidi Lacey

    Thank You so much. I have learned puite a bit, being a visual person and seeing the droop before pulling helped alot.

  • Elizabeth Ross

    Thanks for the tutorial. I have always pulled my sis from the ivory rod alone, never has it occurred to me to use clear first! Duh, I do that when making other stringers so why not sis.
    Again, thanks for sharing.

  • Louise Ingram

    Hi Rosemarie, thank you for a really clear tutorial, directions and pictures! I like how you build the initial wrap around the clear glass, thinking this might work for twisties too.

    I’m with you on the silver foil, I’ve had more success with it also than silver leaf.

  • annette

    thankyou for sharing this am just learning how to do the beads and am having fun in the learning

  • Tania

    Thanks for the tutorial – great pictures

  • Shannon

    Great tutorial. Currently working on a HH and learning what works and what comes out like mud. I made my first SIS and wondered why the results were less than stellar. I used silver leaf and will look into adding silver foil to my stash. I’ll be heading back to the torch and trying the clear core (need to get rid of some 004 Moretti), but still work with the silver leaf.

  • profault

    i m french super sympa merci beaucoup pour nous lol

  • Helena

    Just found your blog – through Pinterest! Great tutorial, I recently set up my own torching station! I deff will be trying your technique!

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